Franky’s Fare, Huahine

Franky turned out to be a dog. He had his butt parked on the patio ready to welcome us. We rented Franky’s Place for 8 days via Air B+B, this was my first actual experience renting via Air B+B and it could not have turned out any better in any way. Franky’s Place is owned by Smith and Jocelyn Lemaire. It’s people like them who are setting the bar for Air B+B. Great people, great house, great location. The house is traditional Tahitian, in a Tahitian neighborhood. Smith and Jocelyn have taken great pains to provide human comforts. The home is fully screened, with a well-appointed kitchen (meaning it really does have everything needed to cook and serve a nice meal), a hot and cold H2O beverage dispenser (a true luxury), a large clean bath with functioning hot water, comfortable living room with a TV for movies, upstairs bedroom with comfortable a bed and large open window to look at the stars.

The front porch looks out on to a beautiful kept lawn and garden. The variety of flowers, plants and fruit bearing trees is impressive. There is an outside shower situated among Smitty’s many injured surf boards turned landscaping.

And not to be left out; there are 2 functioning bicycles to cruise the short distance to town where there is one of the largest grocery stores in French Polynesia, banks, post office, shops, cafes, snack shops, roulettes and the fore mentioned Huahine Yacht Club. The public beach which is a short hop from the Yacht Club  also has killer views, white sand, turquoise water and plenty of room to spread your towel.

So all in all if you are looking to experience a genuine piece of Polynesia, sign up with Franky’s Huahine Fare. You won’t be disappointed. (Unless you’re looking for an expensive hermetically sealed environment with club sandwich room service, and a place where “nobody knows your name”.)

Arriving in Huahine, and the Hawaiki Nui Va’a Canoe Race, Society Islands

We bounced into Fare, Huahine in Smith Lemaire’s pick- up truck. Mike and I had just flown in from Raiatea and sure enough Smitty was at the airport looking for 2 gringo’s from the U.S. (As I’ve mentioned before we’re kind of hard to miss no matter what local accessories we’ve acquired.) Town was pretty crazy because the Hawaiki Nui Va’a canoe race was to launch in one day. Teams had gathered with their entourages from all over French Polynesia.

The annual event often draws teams from far reaches of the South Pacific but this year the weather was slated as unpredictable and the competition was stacking up between the closer- in islands. There were lots of professional teams in lots of fancy outrigger canoes. The local Huahine team who does not have a big name sponsor was described as an underdog and in the past has placed well. They became our favorite.

Back in the pick-up truck Smitty swings by the Huahine Yacht Club to see if his wife Jocelyn was there. She was holding down a table with her circle of friends, visitors, surfers, dancers and locals. (We fit the visitor’s category.) It didn’t take us long to discover Smith is a known surfer in these parts as well as Hawaii. Jocelyn an equally attractive counterpart from Canada/California/Hawaii. Proud of their island, home, and community they welcomed us.

After a Hinano at the Yacht Club we set out on foot into festival territory. The place was packed with team booths, vendors, sponsors and others taking advantage of the crowd and selling T-Shirts, fruit, ice cream, coco fresco, flowers, shell necklaces and walk away dinners. As my friend Gail would say; all kinds of shopping opportunities. The undercurrent of paddlers everywhere; gave the scene strength and the promise of excitement to come.

As it started to rain Smitty and Jocelyn quickly led us to a most excellent roulette where we sat on tiny plastic stools under a white tarp and dined on lime chicken and chow-mane. It was delicious. Following the feast we proceeded to Frankie’s Place.

I’m not going to pretend to know a lot about canoe races. I used to canoe on the Connecticut River with the girl scouts, I don’t think that counts in the racing category.  Mike and I had never seen an outrigger canoe until our honeymoon.  That’s when we got in and headed to the closest motu. In lesser marriages this may have led to divorce but we managed to turn around well before the motu and ask for a ride in the motor boat.

This past month we were fortunate to be visiting Huahine on  the first weekend of November where the first leg of the Hawaiki Nui Va’a 2015 outrigger canoe race begins it’s first leg. This race is deeply rooted in Polynesian culture and was the 24th consecutive year, pulling teams from all over the South Pacific.  It’s a 3 day race; Huahine to Raiatea-44.5 Kilometers, Raiatea to Tahaa – 26 K and Tahaa to Bora Bora 58.2 K. Most of the teams paddle a Matahina Va’a which is an all purpose outrigger for ocean crossings. Ocean crossing is the key word, this in not an easy race. We saw them “dash to the pass” at 60 strokes per minute then crash thru the waves in the cut. It was very exciting.

So now I’m back to the part I’m not claiming to be an expert but for those who are interested check this link out! Hawaiki Nui Va’a 2015

Final results: 1st overall: EDT, 2nd overall: Shell, 3rd overall: OPT (these are th post office guys)