We have certainly been off the grid these past 3 weeks. Travels on the Aranui 3 were amazing. Our experiences in the Marquesas Islands will be hard to describe, we traveled all over the place often visiting several villages on one island then going to several islands the next day. They were all different and made me drag my camera out time and time again. Mike and I both wrote, took lots of pictures that I will try and post in the next few days. We have pretty good internet service. But for now, we are on the island of Raiatea in the Society Island Group. Below a few reflections.
Raiatea, Sunset Beach Motel 10/24/15
We seem to have landed in the Garden of Eden. Yesterday we were living in a shoe box (quite content) and today we are lounging on our porch overlooking the beautiful bay where a few sail boats bob around in the distance. The sea which is turquoise; breaks against the reef creating white zippers and a sure sign the big fish lay on the other side. The birds are flitting about and the roosters making their presence known. Yes, this place will work nicely for us.
Maeho picked us up yesterday at the airport. These arrangements can go either way, I made the reservation 7 months ago. He’s a nice looking guy, we describe as “surferish”. He has an Irish complexion with a bit of blond and is a 6th generation islander. The 9 hectors we are sitting on was started as a coconut plantation by his grandfather (who is French) and his grandmother (who is Tahitian). Thus we were greeted with cold coconuts in the frige ready to tap and many signs saying not to lounge under the coconut trees (bonk).
10/25/15
We have just returned from snorkeling off the wood dock (here at the Sunset Beach Motel). It goes out quite a way and you enter the water off a ladder that drops you at the edge of a steep, deep cliff. We saw lots of tropicals; angel fish, puffers, triggers (that like to come right up to your face), yellow fins, sergeant major, blueheads and lots of butterfly and a huge array of other fish I can’t keep track of. I need to get a better ID placemat, because my “Saltwater Fishes” I got in Mexico is not cutting the mustard. There is a stingray that favors the shallows as you walk out to the end of the dock. He looks innocent enough but the bigger fish always give me a bit of a scare. The coral is quite nice, not a huge variety but healthy looking.
Maeho (the guy who picked us up at the airport) has 4 kids and has set up a zip line that deposits you in the water quite a ways out over the deep cliff. We haven’t tried it yet, you have to climb up on a platform then jump off holding on for dear life. It looks a little precarious for anyone swimming below. Anyway, we will see who goes first for that thrill.
Speaking of thrills, Mike had a major standoff with the king of the land crabs yesterday. He was readying our BBQ which hasn’t been used in a while and the big guy came marching out to eyeball him. There was a stare off and Mike was close to a retreat but then suddenly the big guy sidled off to the left. (They walk sideways while staring at you). They are amazing creatures and are everywhere.
Signing off for now.
Next day We woke up to a full view of Bora Bora today. The top of its iconic peak has been hiding behind some clouds the last couple of days. Crystal clear is also the island of Tahaa (closest to us) with Maupiti behind Bora Bora. Pinch me, this is ridiculously beautiful. We had a great day today although we bordered on retail overload. Maeho took us to town. There was a big fancy sailing ship pulled up to the town wharf. Shops were laying out their wears for hopeful sales. Mike and I sat in a sidewalk café and ate chocolate croissants which I have developed a liking for. The pastry chef on the Aranui needs to be shot. Anyway we cruised some of the shops in town, bought a few things then decided to rent a car. We’ve been discussing this the last few days. We want to go to the other side of the island to see Marae de Taputapatea which is a significant archeological site of the early Polynesian culture. Sidsel who was our archaeological lecturer on the Aranui (Marquesas) will be impressed with a photo of me snooping ave certainly been off the grid this past 3 weeks.