From Sant Sadurni d’Anoia to Sos del Rey Catolico
Yesterday we left the lovely little grape growing town of Sant Sadurni and “headed for the hills” or rather the foothills of Pyrenees.
I wake up this morning, look out the window and imagine King Ferdinand II of Aragon strutting about as a 5 year old. He was indeed born in this hillside village in 1452 in the Sada Palace.
The locals call this place “Sos”.
Mike and I are staying in the heart this Aragonese village. The bell tolls every 15 minutes and little has changed since 1452. The cobble stone streets are tight, and complicated to a newcomer.
The sun slants thru different times of the day but it’s cool, everything is stone. It’s difficult to imagine present day village life working here at all but we begin to notice a few tienda’s and restaurants and shops tucked into nooks and crannies.
The hours are different here than in the US, businesses are open in the morning and evening. Does everyone really take a nap mid-day? Mike “squished” a copper coin (like we do a penny) with the likes of Ferdinand, oh my; he may have been impressed with this little trick. We are housed at the Hostal las Coronas, same digs offered in 1452 albeit a few improvements in plumbing and electric.
Our small apartment on the 4th floor overlooks a tight little plaza. Leaning over our balcony rail would not agree with my friend Gail. The height made me swoon. I took a picture of Mike smoking a cigar below in the plaza.
There are no cars and very few people. This place is amazing. Yester wandered, today we explore.
Our exploration first took us to Sada Palace the birth place of King Ferdinand II of Aragon. You would probably recognize his likeness; full puffy lips and little boy looks. And yes, he’s the one who kept Isabella happy by financing Columbus with the monies to start his little adventure to the new world. As the small museum and “presentation” showed their lives were not easy, filled with strife, religious unrest, battles and the continuous struggle for power. The views from the palace windows were stunning, the most memorable is the view is across the village to the “Keep Tower” of the castle.
There is nothing left of the 10th century castle except a few chimneys because it was built of wood. The tower however remains in total as in the 12th century. It remains the most important vestige of the castle and the village. The San Esteban Church right next door, has a Romanesque entrance which means pretty fancy, and the church holds a baptismal font from the 8th century. At first I thought the village quite small but the marks of progress since the 12th century are quite clear; there are market arcades complete with roman scales
(with the Argonese measuring stick), the Jewish quarter, schools, the town hall, the guild hall. All recycled; blending the Medieval with the new; families, businesses and a micro culture we were so very pleased to experience.