Mike and I were contemplating tapas in a place called the Matadoriora which I tried to translate and only came up with matrimony, or slaughterhouse, I was hoping it wasn’t the latter. We were slightly stunned after a day of hiking around Santiago de Compostela. The tender of the tapas asked “Have you traveled in by foot as Pilgrims?” Mike responded, “Yes, indeed we have… in an Avis rental car” The guy almost fell over laughing.
Santiago de Compostela is the final stop on the epic Camino de Santiago pilgrimage trail. It begins in San Sebastian and ends 500 miles later here in Santiago de Compostela. The trail has strained and comforted millions over the years, today more than 250,000 make the journey each year.
The cathedral is the heart of the city and it is believed that Santiago Apostol (St James the Apostle) is buried here. The word Compostela comes from the Latin word Campus Stella (constellation) and the story attached explains a religious hermit; Pelayo being guided by the stars to rediscover the tomb in AD 820. Mike and I spent a long time in the cathedral. It’s actually the 4th church to stand on this spot. The usual, mine’s bigger than yours and a lot of repair and reconstruction brings it to where it is today. We were again surprised with the generosity and allowance of freedom to explore the cathedral.
Up and behind the alter there is a small staircase that leads to a stature of Santiago who has watched over the cathedral since 1211, people hug and kiss it. After coming down the stairs you are allowed to go under the alter to the Cripta Apostolic where Santiago’s remains lie inside a silver casket. I have to tell you, that was pretty amazing. A special pilgrim’s mass is celebrated daily, we circled the interior several time. It was an exciting and peaceful visit.
The next day we hiked all over the city.
The more than hospitable fellows at Hotel Costa Villa where we procured a delightful room, were amazingly patient with us, drawing maps, and suggesting various routes to explore.
I think we did them all, including a visit to the local market where it seems “everyone” shops for everything. The fish lanes are always my favorite and I can’t resist taking pictures of what offerings the sea has made. We also bought a boob cheese.
The boob cheese has a long and complicated story. BUT it has something to do with a bishop being in the cathedral and seeing a statue of a woman who had very nice breasts, too nice apparently because he had them shaved down to a “decent” size.
This enraged the people of Santiago de Compostela and they began making their cheese in the form of a boob. The cheese is delicious, there is a soft version and a smoky version. We have some in the frig at this very moment.
On that note I end my memories of Santiago de Campostela an amazing city with an amazing aura.